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Saturday, January 29, 2011

Those people are CRAZY!

I have been living in California for almost eight years now, and had been visiting regularly for several years before that.  I used to see surfers in their wet suits and think, "Those people are CRAZY!"  My college climatology classes taught me that California has cold water currents that run right along the coast, creating fog and frigid surf conditions.  Well folks, today Tash and I were out there, wet suits on and bobbing in the water with about 70 other crazy people.  We went to Cowells to turn our hands and feet into frozen blocks and wait patiently for a wave we could stand on.  Tash caught a nice one, and up she went, proving to herself and others, just how much she loves surfing.  I, as always had a great time just being out there.  I'm not in a hurry to learn, but I would like to be in better shape.  I felt slow and sluggish today, more so than previously.  It was really too crowded today for water babies like us, and made us realize that a few lessons on turning and board control are a must if we want to be out in a crowd.

We got out to dry off and warm up, and a middle aged woman approached us.  She was carrying a sage green board, and had long blond hair.  She explained her ten year old daughter was too cold to get back in and would be sitting near us on the beach, but that she planned to run back out and catch a couple more waves. Without really saying the words, she was asking us to keep an eye on her daughter.  The woman explained she had grown up on this beach, and you could tell by her sunny disposition and eagerness to be in the water that she was a total surfer girl.  In her twenties men must have lost their hearts to this California Girl.

Hot coffee and a warm car were just the ticket, and made our hands and feet tingle.

Song for the SFSTSoundtrack:  Girl, You'll Be A Woman Soon.
SFST topic for discussion: Titles - Pilot? Captain?

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